OUR RATTERY IS LOCATED…At this time we are in Millard County, and hopefully will be moving over to Sanpete County in the near future.
I am a small rattery that strives to improve rats and the future of rats. I do all that i can to give my rats the best care. I have a small rattery so I have time for each of them. This way I can hand-tame them as much as possible before they go to their new home.
I breed rats firstly to improve their life, health, and temperament, then secondly for their color, coat, and markings. I also breed so I can show people that there is a lot of misunderstandings about rats, and they in fact make wonderful pets. Rats are smart, clean, and gentle, and when you adopt a rat you will find a great loyal friend.
Right now I’m focusing on:
Coats: Standard, and Rex
Colors: Blue, Siamese, and Merle. But I also sometimes have: Platinum, Mink, Pearl, Cinnamon, Fawn, Beige, Agouti, Black, and White
Markings: Self, Berkshire, Variegated, Veriberk, blaze, Irish
Ears: Standard, and Dumbo
After having rats for many years I started my rattery early 2010. I have been working with other breeders and have a mentor that helps me along the way. Here are some great site’s you may be interested in:
They are pets only, which means I do not breed for feeders. Rats make wonderful pets. They are like a dog and cat mixed into a small little bundle. I also do not make money for what I do. The money I get goes right back into my rattery. Thank you for your interest. If you have any questions please feel free to contact me.
DISCLAIMER: Many people see my website and assume I have the BEST rats alive. Please don’t put my rats at such a high standard! We are all ONLY human so to speak, including my rats. Although I only breed rats of good health and temperament, doesn’t mean something won’t present its self. Nothing is PERFECT, and a lot of people assume I found perfection. I travel around Utah and also the surrounding states, in search of the best breed-able rats out there. I strive for health, temperament, and looks. I created this website ONLY to advertize the good rats I’ve found, spread information about rats, and because I love animals.
- If health concerns arise TGR rats are taken to their vet when needed.
- They get talked to or played with daily.
- Proper food and nourishment is supplied.
- Bedding, and cages are comfortable and safe.
- TGR Rats are my pets first.
- Breeding will only be done with healthy, well-tempered, friendly, and rat with loving personalities.
- Every thing in their cages are taken out and cleaned thoroughly weekly.
- Pedigree’s are kept and recorded
- Rats are never knowingly adopted out with Health or temperament issues.
- I will never breed for feeders, or pet stores.
- Breeding will only be done when my rats are at their proper age.
- I do proper quarantine, when needed.
- If you have any questions about my Ethics, Please contact me.
The average life span of a rat is 2–3 years. The average body length of an adult rat is 9–11 inches, with an average tail length of 7–9 inches. The average body weights for rats are 350–450 grams for a female, 450–650 grams for a male. There have been a few adult males that have weighed up to 2 pounds!
How to keep your pet happy:
Rats are very smart and social animals. They need companionship, with their owner and their own species. Rat are most active at night, and are happy to play with their own kind while their owner is sleeping. Rats kept in pairs or groups are happier, and more confident. Two rats are as easy to look after as one. Most cages are big enough for a pair. Also Rats need toys and a place to hide and sleep. They need things to chew on, and make bedding with. Put levels in the cage, so they can jump and climb. There are many fun things you can buy from pet stores or order on line, but you can also use items in your very own home. Use empty boxes like from cereals, or tissues. Although these boxes are short lived, they can hind in them, and tare them up.
What to feed your rat:
Rats can have a lot of different foods, but sometimes buying the pre-made rat mix in the store is not all that good. A lot of rats will pick and choose what they eat out of the mix. Native Earth 4018 lab blocks is great! It helps their teeth and they eat It all because everything is pack into one block. (Found on amazon.com…not available in stores.) Also you can put together a mix with oats, 5 grain oats, sunflower seeds, dried pasta, dried bananas, dried cranberries, and good whole gain cereals. They can also have fresh fruit and vegetables two – four times a week. Spinach, lettuce, carrots, peas, corn, apples, melons, grapes, berries…ect…(sweet potatoes must be cooked.)
Some approved bedding for rats are aspen wood chips, cloth, shredded paper, care fresh, pellet bedding and newspaper. (Newspaper needed to be used in conjunction with some other bedding because it does not absorb as well.) Do not use…pine wood chips, cedar wood chips, and/or cat litter. These are toxic to rats and can cause respiratory problems.
Male vs. Female:
Both genders make great pets for all ages, and both have wonderful temperaments!
Their bodies are larger, and have noticeable testicles.
They are calmer and make a good lap pet.
Their bodies are smaller.
They are more energetic and like to explore.
They do NOT spray or mark. They may dribble a drop of pee on you to tell you they love you but it’s very minimal.
They make great pets for kids. Rat should never bite, and they love all human companionship. If you have a child 4 years old or younger I would recommend the male gender just because of their calmness and size when they are adults.
They both smell the same. Just like all pets as long as they are taken care of with proper bedding, and regular cage cleaning there will be no issue of smell.
Introducing a new rat to their new colony:
There is a process when you want to add a new member of your family to your current family of rats. It is a small and easy process most of the time. Males more than females need time to get to know their new cage mates before they are stuck together. Males are more territorial then females but both gender need the time to get to know their new cage mates. Put your new rat in a place in your home where he/she can explore a little but not too far. (Bathtub, couch, playpen…ect…) Then take your current rat or rats to that place, so they can play and smell each other. Never introduce then for the first time in the cage. Supervise them while they play, to make sure that all of them are behaving. You may want to do this introduction processes for a couple days in a row, but sometimes especially in females it may only take one introduction for them to become friends. Now they are friends. When you decide to put them in the cage all together, make sure the cage is clean and smells are gone as much as possible. Start fresh when adding your new member to the cage. When the cage is clean, the need to feel territorial goes down immensely. You must supervise them in their cage for the first couple days. They can fight, play,and make noises and there is no need to worry. If there is blood you must separate your rats again and do the introduction process again until they are truly friends. Rats are very excepting creatures and they will make friends quickly.
“An animals life can not be for sale, but can be adopted to a loving home” By: TGR